Thursday 25 October 2007

Day 8 Oct 22 Melaka

Perhaps it was accumulated fatigue, or simply a very comfortable bed and quiet surroundings. Whatever, I slept in this morning - right up to past 9. That is a very later hour for me indeed!

Andrew updated me on the goings on in Melaka since the last time I was around. It seems the river has been cleaned up and all the river cruise operators had been asked to cease operations as the state government was taking over the business. Needless to say Andrew had a few choice words about this. And a few other things as well, including the land reclamation and the rapid and pervasive development that was going on.

Singam picked me up about 1030 and we went for another exploring drive.

We visited Kampung Air Salak again and as it was daytime this time, we could stop and have a look around. The church and one of the nearby houses was constructed from the same stone that was used at St Paul's Church - a red-brown rock with a pock-marked surface.

There is a particularly peaceful air in Kampung Air Salak. I couldn't quite put my finger on it - there was hardly anyone about at the time so it had nothing to do with the people. The homes were, for the most part, like the homes in most any kampung, so it wasn't that either. And yet, the atmosphere had a distinct quality which made me think it would be a lovely place to live.

We also visited a temple with the tallest spire in SE Asia - or perhaps even further. It was originally two temples which eventually were combined with the result the layout is unique.






















Lunch was at the Saravana (Singam, help me out with this name again please - nto sure if I got it right...) Restaurant in Little India and it was fabulous. I've often said there is no good Indian food to be had in Singapore and when I eat at places like this, the bar is raised ever higher and all the Singaporean establishments, bar none, fail miserably to compare. One of the dishes I like very much which is quite rare is the thinly-sliced deep-fied bitter gourd. It is fabulous and I've often wished it could be vacuum packed. I would buy dozens of packets at a time!

After lunch, I tagged along to an Artist's gallery. Singam had commissioned Tham Siew Inn (or rather his son) to do a brass-tooling piece for his entrance area. It's turning out very nice indeed, although Singam felt the colours needed muting a little. Decisions made, we stood around talking for half an hour.

As with many conversations about the ride, the initial reaction centres on the distance and the physical qualities of the ride. Shortly after, however, the emotional side comes through. It's wonderful how many people get a little 'provoked' when I start talking about why I'm doing this. There is an underlying passion in many people and the ride is a catalyst for conversation and conviction.

That night, I stayed in and had dinner at Andrew's - the chicken rendang was exquisite so that made 3 fantastic meals in a row. I knew there was a reason I liked Melaka...

Bernard, one of the those whose livelihood was lost when the river cruises were taken over, was in the cafe and the conversation naturally flowed onto that subject. For someone whose 21-year business had suddenly been washed out from under him, Bernard was remarkably calm and lucid. He had been interviewed in the papers and on TV and his main point was that the whole could still be salvaged through negotiation and cooperation. He recognised and accepted the motives of the state, but also reckoned that the accumulated knowledge and expertise of the cruise operators should not be underestimated. Bernard was optimistic a compromise could be reached. I was impressed - I certainly would not have had the patience nor confidence.

Andrew and Bernard have faced tough times recently. Falling tourism numbers have not helped either of them. While Bernard believes in evolving a solution, Andrew is trying something new. Next month, he takes off for a few months to learn something new in his brother's restaurant in Switzerland. He hopes to bring some new ideas and skills back.

I hope he doesn't change things around too much - I shall miss the chicken rendang.
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1 comment:

John Cheong said...

Ha ha Occasional? My typing is atrocious - almost as bad as my memory. I console myself by thinking I'm the gnat, and not the elephant...

Many thanks for the clarifications, though!

They called me John ‘Two-Hits-With-One-Stone’ Cheong

An old memory came to me today when Mei and I went cycling in Balik Pulau. After 2 months of being cooped up in our flat, it was great...