Showing posts with label salted fish. Show all posts
Showing posts with label salted fish. Show all posts

Wednesday, 14 November 2007

Day 24 - 25 Nov 7 - 8 Parit Buntar Part 3

David took me around to a lot of touristy places the next day. By touristy I mean they are places that would appeal to tourists. Fishing village, prawn farms, shipyard, that sort of thing. Although I have been clear about the purpose of this ride - that it is not primarily a sightseeing ride - I still found these sights and sounds interesting.

Ultimately, all these places are run by people. Ordinary folk in a less urbanised environment, doing a myriad of things in the name of making a living. Sure, the jobs they hold are not the jobs I'm used to seeing on a daily basis but that is indeed one reason why it's interesting.

Another is David himself.

David had secondary education only until Form 2. Some years later, he somehow landed a job in a school library and took the opportunity to read books he might have read had he continued his schooling. This gave him a rudimentary alternative schooling and helped him go a little further in life.

A keen badminton player, he was Kedah state singles champion for 3 years in the 70s and missed out on trials with the national team simply because of administrative blunders. He eventually found a job with the Electricity Board, LLN, partly because of his badminton prowess and there he's been ever since.

The privatisation of LLN has been good for him - giving him a better income and health benefits for the whole family. He had an Angioplasty a few years ago and takes a handful of pills every morning to keep him going - the cost of which is borne by the health benefits scheme.

By all accounts, he is a remarkable fellow. Considering his very basic education, he has brought himself quite far indeed. Initially a very local chap, with no contact with Mat Sallehs, David went on a cycling trip through Southern Thailand, met a lot of foreigners and his life suddenly changed. He became comfortable with foreigners, and more importantly, found a great desire to show his country to them. David's Homestay followed soon after.

He now hosts cyclists and backpackers from all over the world and has become quite well known throughout the budget traveling community. Indeed, I found him on the internet and the idea of someone in Parit Buntar, of all places, playing host to international cyclists and backpackers was irresistible. I just had to drop by.

One couple who came to stay helped him set up his website and showed him how to manage it so now this chap with the Form 2 education manages his own site, creating pages, putting up pictures, etc. His spoken English is more than adequate, but his written English still needs work so David takes pictures of signs at tourist spots and painstakingly copies them onto his webpages when he needs to explain a location or event.

As for marketing David's Homestay, his army of friends often waylay passing cyclists and pass them his card. Many contact David and end up staying days, even weeks. David also has an active online presence and is a member of online hospitality and cycling communities. These get him coverage and visibility and has led to many visits from people who found him online.

Not bad for someone who left school at 14, eh?

I won't inundate you with the details of the touristy things we did. I will say that seeing the myriad of activities and industries available in the area (a herbal sauna in a kampung/padi field setting anyone?) was eye-opening. Seeing them with David was enlightening.

He gets around, that's for sure, for he knew people everywhere. And when he didn't, he knew someone who knew someone where we wanted to go and that is how we sauntered into the ship yard unchallenged.

After spending some time going around in his car, I'm also now convinced David has God on his side. If you were of a nervous disposition or if you'd failed to notice that his car is relatively unscathed, you would either suffer a nervous breakdown or have a cardiac arrest within a few minutes of travelling as a passenger when he drives.

David is an engaging fellow. One of his driving problems is that he sometimes gets so caught up with a particular topic he forgets to engage gears too. We drove a few kilometres in second gear at one stage, with David telling me about something or other and me too polite to ahem... tell him there were a few other gears if he so desired.

He also forgets the accelerator at times. That is he starts to lighten the pressure on the right pedal as he points out sights, or talks or listens to you. I would glance over and see the speedometer needle inch back from 60 to 55 to 50 then to 45 and even down to 40 at one stage. And this is km/h mind you...

All this while, cars would casually swing around him and overtake and not once, on our hours together did someone horn at him. Or stare as he went past. And then David would suddenly realise his right foot was not doing anything in particular and he'd find something to do with it and step on the gas and off we'd go at a saner 60 or so.

That's not all... you know those diagonal white lines that denote areas on the road you should avoid because there's a merging lane or something? Well, it's perfectly safe to drive over them. Even when they technically belong to an oncoming lane. I should know - we kept doing it and I'm here typing this aren't I?


























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Thursday, 18 October 2007

Day 2 Kukup to Pontian Kechil

Avg Speed: 17.7 km/h
Distance: 25.77 km
Max: 24.5 km/h
Headwind for much of the way

I made a mistake today - one which I will learn from.

I decided to wander the streets of Kukup again, this time in daylight. Whereas the night had lent a mysterious, almost primitive air to Kampung Air Masin, daytime brought an atmosphere of normality. The daylight revealed what the nightime had shrouded. And what I saw, even in the early morning, was a bustling little village.

People were out and about, raising the shutters on their shops - surprisingly, many homes did not appear to be locked. Not last night nor this morning. Their gates and doors were almost without exception open and unbarred. Oliver had said it was safe, and yet my instincts found it unnatural...

I came across some gunny sacks laid out to dry and wondered what they were for. The answer came a few metres up the road - prawns and some kind of pink or magenta mix were being spread out in the sun to dry.








I went back to town and stopped at a little coffee shop to have a bowl of laksa. A couple of shops up the road were packed full of people hanging on to their passports. Kukup is a staging point to some Indonesian islands I suppose.

While packing, I chatted for awhile with Oliver. His place comprises the bungalow I stayed in, another one with 3 or 4 rooms and a longhouse, all of which combined can accommodate over 200 people. He also arranges tours etc.

Oliver used to be a teacher and was born in Pekan Nanas. He stayed in KL for 5 years until just after 1969 then returned to Pekan Nanas. Moved to Kukup over 30 years ago with his wife who was born here. They have two kids, one of whom works in Benut, my planned stop after Pontian. Oliver told me there is nowhere to stay in Benut as it's a small town.

I said my goodbyes with more than a seed of certainty I would return. I think my kids will like Kukup - and not just for the novelty of living in a house on stilts, nor the fact that everything - and I mean everything - simply gets washed into the ground beneath, waiting for the tides to clear it. There was enough to see and do for a short holiday, and the people I'd met, apart from the inept staff at King's were generally friendly and pleasant.


I dropped by to see Lili one last time. She gave me a Johor guidebook with hotels listed and that confirmed there was nothing in Benut. So I now faced a 70+ km ride on only my third day...

All these activities on the morning meant I left Kukup sometime mid-morning. And here was the first part of my lesson - it is not advisable to cycle around noon. Well, I learnt it the hard way.

The first few km out of Kukup was very easy going. I was astonished at how many people would smile or wave at me. Not just people standing by the road, but truck drivers on the other side would horn at me and wave encouragement as they went past. Kids would scream and wave excitedly. A passenger in a car going past actually wound down his window to clap encouragement. It made me feel extremely motivated. So early in this trip and I'd met some very nice people in Johor National Parks, Oliver and now so many others along the way.

I needed it...

I was still going at about 12:30 when any sane person would be in shade having lunch. It got so hot I had to stop a couple of times. The headwind I struggled against for much of the way I later discovered to be the likely result of the heat rising off the tarmac. Whatever, when I finally reached Pontian just past 1pm, I was hot, bothered, and more than a little red in the face and on my exposed arms.

I found two hotels - both on the upper floors of 3-storey shophouses. As if the hot ride in wasn't enough... I eventually settled on the Campbell, a.k.a. Kim Heng Hotel. I look up despairingly at the long staircase up and spied a lady walking across the first floor landing. She confirmed they had rooms and that I could bring the bike up.

This entailed taking the bags off, then locking the bike up against a railing, carting my things up, then going back down for the bike. I think I have to get used to this! Fortunately this time it was only the first floor I had to go up.

The Kim Heng Hotel seemed to be run by a set of geriatric Malay ladies with beaming smiles. My room was spartan and continued the happy trend of having both air-conditioning and a hot water heater. My nose was getting stuffed up - probably caught a chill at Oliver's but I had a nice hot shower, rested a little and eventually wandered off to look for a late lunch.

Pontian is bland and featureless which explains why I hardly took any pictures. The rows and rows of shophouses featured a multitude of mobile phone shops, but not a single internet cafe. Uploading this had to wait.

There is a bus stop across the main road and buses and taxis take passengers all over Johor and the rest of the peninsular. There is also a predominantly Malay hawker centre next to that. And that's about all I can think of that would even have a sniff of a chance of being entered into a tourism brochure I'm afraid.

Still, the people were polite and pleasant. I had a late evening coffee at one of those new-old coffeeshops. Someone explain why these invariably sport a maroon paint scheme and have copies of historic pictures adorning one wall and a large black and white historic photo as a mural on the other side? They serve coffee in old-style coffee cups and this place was no different. I sat in a booth and had a cup of Kopi-C (I think they define 'C' as 'Condensed Milk because it was both thick and sweet) while continuing my reading of Peter Moore's 'Wrong Way Home' which details his 8-month voyage by bus, train and other land and sea transport from London to Sydney.

Dinner was a plate of fried rice with salted fish at the open air restaurant across the road. Old decor again, but this time the genuine stuff: stone tables painted red. Food was nice and the owner and the waitresses were attentive and friendly.

After my mid-afternoon roaming of the town, I had no more urge to do any more exploring and tried to have an early night in anticipation of a long ride tomorrow. Gan was going to meet me near Batu Pahat so I reckoned a 7am start would be good.







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They called me John ‘Two-Hits-With-One-Stone’ Cheong

An old memory came to me today when Mei and I went cycling in Balik Pulau. After 2 months of being cooped up in our flat, it was great...