Showing posts with label Gan Cheong Soon. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gan Cheong Soon. Show all posts

Friday, 2 November 2007

Day 15 Oct 29 P Carey - Kelang Part 1

Distance: 78.86 km
Max Speed: 30.6 km/h
Average while moving: 18.3 km/h

Liverpool 1, Arsenal 1. Not the best result for Gan and Ray, Liverpool supporters that they are, nor for me, Manchester United supporter that I am. Of equal significance is the fact that as the game started at midnight, Gan could not make the 7am start we had originally planned for him to drive me back near where he'd picked me up on Friday.

To be honest I didn't mind. I was beginning to appreciate the comfort of home, driving (or being driven!) to places I needed to get to. Food and drink at your fingertips.

At the back of my mind, however, I was itching to get back on the bike. It had become second nature to me, to be pedalling about and to be so in touch and in contact with my surroundings. Additionally, I was beginning to tire of the urban surroundings.

There is something about being in the kampungs, a sense of some accomplishment, not function. It seems to me perhaps that in an urban environment, despite the very obvious examples of Man's attempt to subjugate his surroundings, it seems that with every attempt, we are merely distancing ourselves more and more from our humanity.

By injecting artificiality into the environment, we reduce our roles to functions. We are no longer 'Who' but 'What'. When you meet someone new in an urban setting, almost invariably the first question is 'So, what do you do?'.

In the kampungs, partly due to my appearance of course, the first question I'm asked is 'Where are you from?' Whether a question of history or birthplace, the emphasis here is on 'You'. I will explore this a little more in a separate post.

At 8:30 when Gan came around, I was a little sad to say 'Goodbye' to my mother and sister, but in a way, quite happy to be travelling again. I'd become used to the movement, the exertion, the sights, sounds and smells and I was eager to get back to that again.

We drove in to Pulau Carey, the island being linked to the mainland by a short bridge over the river. As we'd both never been before, we decided to drive all the way in, a distance of about 20 kms. The road ended at a short beach. Our map, and subsequent conversations with locals indicated that a connection would eventually be made to Pulau Indah nearby.

We backtracked until we saw a sign that pointed to an Orang Asli village and we went down that road until it came to a dead end at a little school and a small stall. Across from the stall, and next to the tarred road that we came in on, was a small football field. The lines were well marked out, and Gan and I noticed that one corner of the field was encroached on by the curving road. The corner was indeed on the tarred surface and I pity any player attempting a sliding tackle right at the corner! We unloaded the bike, Gan went off and I sat down at the stall for a cup of tea.

The stall was owned by a Malay lady who was busy setting up. Three of her kids were hanging around, a little girl of about 8 or 9, a boy of 4 and a younger boy of about 2. Another boy, an Orang Asli boy was sitting around waiting for his order of a couple of roti chanai to be cooked.

I chatted with the stallowner as she set up her hotplate and prepared the boy's order. Her littlest fella was busy playing with a black plastic device which I finally realised was the controller for an Xbox. It took me a few more seconds to notice the little TV set I had taken to be a standalone thing was actually connected to a set of mid-sized speakers and an Xbox!

As we chatted, the Malay lady said the kids around liked to play with it in the evenings. The Xbox and various other electronic devices were often purchased from Cash Converters in Klang nearby, and if they were broken there were even people in the area who could fix them. To say I was surprised in an understatement. Then again, presumption is a terribly condescending thing...

She got increasingly chatty and we talked for over half an hour. The school next door had over a hundred kids, including another of her daughters. They had teachers from the towns nearby as well as from out of state. The Orang Asli in the area were mainly fisherman and although we had driven in some way, the sea was actually not that far off.

She did say that things had changed a little since the area became oil palm estates. There were now two large mills on the island (we'd seen the signs) and many foreign workers. In fact, some of the locals did not feel as safe as they did before the influx of these workers.

I eventually got up to go and asked how much the tea was. She initially refused to accept money - I guess she doesn't get too many people coming and chatting and taking pictures of her and her kids! She finally accepted 60 sen, I got on the bike, they all waved goodbye and I was off.

Through the kampung I went, followed by a smiling and very curious boy on his bicycle. He followed me all the way out to the main road and I could still see him in my rear mirror for a minute or two.

I'd ridden some distance when the rain started coming down. Earlier, Gan and I had remarked how straight, flat and shelterless the road was and it seemed we'd tempted fate. The rain fell in buckets and when I spied a couple of buildings by the road, I quickly pulled in. These were two little stalls. The one on the right sold some groceries and petrol, dispensed by hand crank from two 44-gallon drums.

The stall on the right was a tea stall and in the shelter was a Malay man and a younger Indian man who had been on his motorbike and was now also taking shelter from the rain. The Malay man, busy wiping tables and the counter, smiled as I came out of the rain, saying by way of greeting 'It's raining'. I replied 'Oh yes, very heavy indeed', smiled at him and sat down.

As has always been the case in small towns and villages, we eased unhesitatingly into a casual conversation. After a minute I realised the Malay man's wife was inside, tending to the stall. She emerged with a cup of Teh-O for him and he asked if I'd like a drink to which I replied a Teh-O would be nice. He then passed the cup straight to me, waving away my protest that I could easily wait awhile.

The conversation got around to the people and economy of Pulau Carey. Palm Oil arrived quite a few years ago and was now the main activity. Golden Hope (soon to be merged with Sime Darby and Guthrie) owned the plantations around the island and had two big factories as well.

The Orang Asli still did a lot of fishing and both my new friends were adamant the fish in the waters around here were among the best anywhere. We talked about fish for awhile, but although my father loved fishing, I can just about tell a guppy from a shark and that's about it for my Marine Biology. Or should that be Zoology?

As we talked, I noticed the comfort and ease with which the two related to each other. I also noticed that when they spoke of the Orang Asli, they spoke in a matter-of-fact manner. No trace at all of any denigration. In fact, in my encounters in the kampungs and small towns, I have yet to pick up any trace of the condescension or derision we often feel in more urban settings when referring to other races.
























We must have sat there for about an hour, even after the rain has eased. During this time, the lady came out with a plate of thinly sliced goreng pisang which her husband offered to me, then joined in our conversation too. One or two locals came around to buy petrol, and a number of cars and trucks passed along the main road, but we were otherwise fairly undisturbed.

At last I felt I had to take my leave. The young Indian man had mentioned nearby Pulau Indah and how it was all done up and I should go there for the night instead of Klang. He assured me there were chalets.

The Malay man wouldn't accept any money for the Teh-O and goreng pisang and would not budge. I wonder how the people on Pulau Carey actually make a living, such is their generosity!

I found the turn off for Pulau Indah with no trouble. It was the same road in as the road to a couple of the ports and as I soon discovered, was narrow, and thick with trailers... An almost unending stream of large trucks whizzed past usually mere feet from me and it was a frantic ride in. The Indian chap had given me the impression it wasn't far in, but after I'd travelled 10 km, I began to have second thoughts. The road was dirty and bumpy and the spray that my own bike and the passing vehicles was throwing up was caking my shoes, socks and bike in a layer of black and grey sand and oil. I would later find a lot of tar mixed in as well, and when I reached Klang that night, I simply threw away my pair of socks. It would have been impossible to wash it clean.

I began to tire, such was the effort of riding on such a narrow, heavily trafficked road. I figured, however, that as I'd come this far, I might just as well go all the way in so on I went...
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Wednesday, 31 October 2007

Day 12 - 14 Oct 26 - 28 Petaling Jaya Part 2

We got in to PJ in the late afternoon and it was good to be back home. I had not told my mother about the ride - somehow the opportunity to tell her and explain it to her never arose. She was not surprised to see me, but was surprised I came in Gan's car, not my own. When I took the bike out, she didn't express any surprise or make her usual exclamation when confronting any of the Cheong boys' latest adventures or misadventures 'You're mad!'.

She just smiled and said 'Oh.' I was home.

That night I finally met Ong Jin Joo, whose blog is linked here and another Asean scholar whose name I shall not attempt to spell here... I can probably find it out from Jin Joo's blog, but will not now, not with the slow connection I'm having.

Gan had arranged the getogether and we had teh tarik in SS2. The conversation was, as to be expected when one engages brilliant minds, exciting and invigorating.

In the morning, I cycled down to Gan's for a chat and then on to PJ Old Town to get the bike attended to. It was weird cycling with such a light bicycle! I made it through the mad traffic that is Jalan Templer and on to old town, to the shop I used to go to when I was 16 and regularly doing 50 kms a day. Instead of studying...

The chaps who run the place are still there, though they didn't recognise me. The bike had been getting a little rough and a spot of oil here and there and on the gear cables cured the reluctance to change gears I had been experiencing.


A little trip down memory lane here to recall an old friend I have been trying to trace for years: Ng Kien Hoon. We were the best of friends and were both into cycling when we were 16 or 17. One afternoon, I got a call from him saying he'd had an accident and was in hospital and needed my help. He was fine - he'd been looking away when some lady stuck her car out too far at a junction and he hit the front wing of the car and took flight over her bonnet.

The help he needed was was for me to go to 'our' bike shop in Old Town and tell the owner he'd be coming soon with the lady (who'd offered to pay for all the damage to the bike) and could the owner please quote her a higher price so he could get a new and better bike? Geee... even in those days, there were things my friends knew that I could simply never get an instinctual grasp of. I believe he eventually became an accountant...

In the afternoon, I went shopping for a replacement front light. While climbing Bukit Pelanduk, my front light which I hadn't properly pushed into place, had fallen off and broken. I eventually found one at a bike shop in SS2 which stocked some very good parts. I picked up an LED Cateye for just under RM100. Small and light, it can be used as a torch or attached to a helmet too. Great stuff.

Some of the Lasobans met up on Saturday night at my old haunt, Rennie's House of Oxtail. Replete from a dinner with Patsy and Gan at a Thai place in Petaling Gardens, I had to forego the pleasure of an Oxtail Soup. I did note that the price had gone up from about RM4.50 to RM18 though! OK so it's been 20 years...

It was great to catch up with Jo, Prasad, Tchi Yu and wife, Pam. Why is it that the conversations I have in PJ are invariably exciting, involving, passionate, demanding, opinionated...? I do enjoy getting together with these guys - the passion stays with me for a long time.


The next morning, I had breakfast with Tchi Yu and Pam - thanks, guys for changing your Sunday routine and making the effort to meet up - and Tchi Yu was telling me of his problems at his internet cafe. It makes me quite angry that an honest person trying to make a go at a business is being thwarted by corrupt officers. More downer...

The afternoon was spent shopping for books _ I'd finished the two that I'd brought along and needed something to while the nights away. My last few hours in PJ were spent having Hokkien Mee (mmmmm..... yummy) and adding to the blog. WHo knows when I'd get broadband again?
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Thursday, 18 October 2007

Day 3 Pontian - Batu Pahat

Distance: 75.72 km
Max Speed: 37.8 km/h
Forget the average - I took hours!

What a day! If Day 2 taught me not to ride in the midday sun, Day 3 taught me to rethink my definition of 'early start'.

I had breakfast at a little after 6 at a 24-hour Indian shop a few streets away. I ordered a Roti Telur Bawang which the guy had to specially make. I sat down and had my teh but could not eat much of the roti. I suspected it was a simple case of my stomach waking a little later than the rest of me. This has been the case for most of my life but this time I anticipated the owner would ask me why I hadn't finished the food he'd had to prepare just for me. I had a pat answer and when I got up to pay, true enough he saw 2/3 of the roti left untouched and asked why. I thought he would laugh when I said 'My stomach is still sleeping I think'. But he didn't. He gave me my change and didn't even look me in the eye. What the heck, I'm not likely to eat there again anyway!

Now let me reveal something very personal. I do have mild Irritable Bowel Syndrome. Sparing you the details, I will admit that I may, during the course of the day, have to avail myself of the conveniences more than most people. If I'm at work this isn't a problem of course, but on a bike it can be. So this morning, I decided to make sure I'd got that well taken care of before I set out.

When I finally got the bike downstairs and packed up, and said my goodbyes to the Makcik, it was just getting on 8am. I headed out of Pontian and for the first 15 kms it was good riding. Cool air, decent average speed - I was feeling good! After that, things started heating up a bit and at about 10:30 I began to feel a bit warm again. Careful not to push too hard, I still felt compelled to get as far as I could in what I began to realise would be a two-stage ride in to Batu Pahat. It became clear, what with my frequent stops (first at 15 kms, thereafter every 10 km or so) to take in water and rest up a bit, that I would not make the 75 kms in 4 hours.

Once again I was astonished at how many people waved or smiled or called out. One kid ran across the road from his bunch of friends on the other side, shouting something at me. He stuck his arm out and I thought he wanted to yank me off the bike or something so swerved around him to his great disappointment. It was then that I realised he just wanted to high-five me. Oops...

There was a dearth of Air Tebu stalls. In fact, there was a dearth of any stalls open at all. The Hari Raya holidays are still in full swing apparently. So I stopped often at bus stops, sheltering from the increasingly hot sun.

Close to lunch time and I'd only got as far as Rengit (yup - no hotel) where I decided to stop at a coffee shop just before the turnoff to Punggur Beach. Gan wasn't far off and he turned up less than an hour later having driven down from KL to pass me the Maxis broadband wireless modem which now means I have some connection to the net. Hurray!

There was an old Pakcik at the shop with his daughter and I chatted briefly with him. Remarkably, he worked for 40 years in Singapore, not far from where my office is. As if that wasn't enough, he also lived in the Bedok area, just a few minutes from where Mei and I live now!

We left the bike locked up at the shop, packed my bags in the car and drove back to Rengit to have lunch. Two orders of Nasi Ayam and a couple of drinks for RM12. Not bad at all. I decided to wait until past 4 to head off, thereby avoiding most of the glare and heat of that sweltering afternoon. See? I do learn. Usually...

After Gan left to head back to KL, I stayed around a bit at the coffee shop, reading. At 4 pm, I said my goodbyes to the coffeeshop owner who had been kind and patient. I bought a couple of bread rolls just so he'd have a bit more business out of us and got back on the bike to head towards Batu Pahat, about 32 km away.

During lunch we'd remarked how this part of Johor is quite flat. Well, after travelling quite a distance, and not within 10 kms of Batu Pahat, I discovered it isn't flat. At all. Looking at the map now, I realise there is a 427m hill on the east and a 250m hill on the west of the road in. I think I went up both.

I came to the first climb, realised I wasn't going to make it up, despite going all the way down the gears and travelling at less than 8 km/h. A short litany of expletives and I decided enough was enough I was going to get off the bike and push. Mustering all the dignity I could I did just that. The stream of traffic going by did remarkably offer the occasional toot of encouragement. When I got to the top, I stopped for a couple of minutes to catch my breath then got back on the bike and zoomed down the hill, round a corner only to see another climb ahead of me.

I tried. I really did, but I just couldn't make it up. I'm shuddering, just thinking of the hills in Perak as I type this! The irony of it is that on the left of the road was a Chinese cemetery... Well, I got up by pushing the bike then stopped by the roadside again to have a drink and splash my, by now, extremely hot body with squirts from the fast-emptying water bottle.

The third hill almost wiped me out but I sat down at the top, on a kerb, and rested for a good 15 minutes. Traffic going the opposite way was struggling too - they were changing down to a low gear to make the grade. Around the bend ahead of me I could just make out traffic swinging up another hill so I steeled myself for that by sitting quietly on that kerb, panting and cursing. As if the lack of hotels in the 3 towns I passed wasn't bad enough, the fact I had to do a 75 km ride on only my third day was quite sapping. Then factor in the heat of the day, and you begin to get some idea of my increasingly fragile mental state. And now, the hills....

I finally got back on the bike, and zoomed down the steep slope. The hill on the other side wasn't as bad as I'd thought and I managed to get all the way up and zoomed down a beautiful stretch after that. There was a long gentle climb after that so I decided to rest again outside a large supermarket. At this point I began to think it would be wise to mark on a map specially for cyclists 'Here be hills'. No make that 'Here be big bloody mountains'.

Sitting there in this empty carpark, I cooled down considerably and started feeling a little refreshed. I even felt a sense of some achievement for having weathered whatever circumstance had thrown at me. Then I heard thunder... a few drops of rain splattered me... I fought down an urge to look up to the heavens and say 'Look, do you mind?'.

The drizzle didn't get worse however so I eventually got back on and cycled up the long road. That was the last of the dramas though as just after that crest was one long slope down after another. It was amazing - my speeds were hitting 35 km/h or more at this stage and that's how I came into the outskirts of Batu Pahat. When I saw the first rows of shophouses I couldn't restrain myself and let out a whoop of delight. Cruising in to town at over 25 km/h I saw a sign indicating the Rest House up ahead and on a whim thought 'why not?' and swung in.

Now, rest houses were common in the old days of trunk road driving and I had thought they'd died out long ago. Well, I'm glad they didn't. The Batu Pahat Rest House was at the end of a short lane bordered by bushes and trees. As suddenly as I'd turned off the main road, the traffic noise ceased and it seemed a gentle breeze carried me up the slight slope to the driveway.

A chap at reception said there were rooms and I could even park my bike in mine. So I did.

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Wednesday, 17 October 2007

Day 1 Tanjung Piai - Kukup Part 1

Deadlines... I got about two-and-a-half hour's sleep on Sunday night. There was just too much to do - completing some work, rigging up a rear mud-guard, testing out the full load on the bike, and all this while spending my last weekend with the kids for the next six weeks. I got in to bed about 1am then got up again less than 3 hours later to do the last minute stuff.

Still, Mei and I got the bike loaded up and left the house just a few minutes later than the 7 am we had planned. We figured there was no real rush, so were under no great stress. We even had time to have breakfast with Gan at Sunset Way. While Mei and I waited in a queue at a stall, a local resident cuts right to the front of the queue and placed her order. We protested clearly and insistently and got served first - and it's women like this I shall be glad to leave behind for the next month-and-a-half.

Customs and Immigration were cleared with no fuss and we drove through worrying rain - well I was worried, not the rain - all the way in to Kukup, when the rain happily (OK I was happy, not the rain - well, maybe the rain was too, oh nevermind) let up and the sun shone through cool grey skies.

Lili bte Tokiman now manages the Kukup and Tanjung Piai National Parks. I had not seen her in a few years but we recognised each other immediately. She is now married - and I think her husband is much happier she isn't stuck in the jungles of Endau Rompin for weeks at a time. The Endau Rompin Park staff are usually in for 3-week stretches after which they come out for work and a short break for a week.

She recommended a hotel described as 'floating chalets' and off we went to explore Tanjung Piai. I once did a project here which explains my familiarity with the area. The people at Johor Parks are always very nice - they smile, wave at you, and are immensely helpful. On the way out, Gan was stung on the ear by something which caused great pain and a swelling. When we got to the office, they immediately sprang into action and pulled out medicine chests and cases, pored over the tiny labels of a multitude of bottles and tubes. After 5 minutes, we found nothing of any use for what seemed to be a bee sting. Then one of the staff reappeared with a bottle of Minyak Angin or Fung Yau. The ancient-recipe Chinese oil did the trick and the pain subsided.

The Mangrove around Tanjung Piai are not in themselves of great botanical interest - nearby Kukup has many more varieties. What is interesting about Piai is that it is the southern-most tip of the Asian mainland. The Park is heavily touted as this and we discovered a bizarre and grotesque monument to this geographical claim. A concrete platform about the size of a basketball court was built out on the edge of the promontory. On the 3 sides facing out, there are signs with purportedly profound sayings.

I couldn't see the point of 'Veni, Vedi, Vici' in this context. And when Gan read 'Whoever conquers the mind, conquers the world' he turned to me and remarked he didn't realise he was at war with his mind.

The last sign, with the vista of the Melaka Straits behind it announced that you were now at the southern-most tip of mainland Asia. Metres away from this sign is a huge glass-fibre globe mounted on a steel frame which in turn sat on a chamfered concrete platform. The modernity of the painted globe and chrome steel frame contrasts strongly and painfully with the four grecian-style mini columns that adorned the leaning vertices of this platform.

The whole thing sat incongruously on this sun-drenched stage disdainfully surveying the complex ecology and wonders of nature pointing to it at its apex.

I would not be surprised if the whole globe lit up at night. I did discover that the whole could rotate. I grabbed one of the steel arms and pulled at it. The globe pissed on me... Holes where the glassfibre had been broken took in the rain and as the globe swung around, emptied their contents on me as if to mock me.

And so we left.

We went back to Kukup for lunch at one of the seafood restaurants lining one side of the main street.

We had a decent if confusing lunch at Coastway Restaurant. The confusion starts when you notice the signboard outside says 'Causeway Restaurant' while another one just a few feet further inside pronounces you've entered 'Coastway Restaurant. I somehow don't think this helps the staff at all - the two teenagers waiting on tables were in a state of constant rush.

When they came over to serve us, we realised the rush was partly due to their confusion. The rest of it was simple inefficiency. The older of the two plopped some plastic laminated menus on the table and took out a note pad to take our drinks orders. Gan asked if he had 100 Plus whereupon a look of bewilderment spread across the young man's face. He turned and ran back to the front (OK I'm not making this stuff up - you enter off the main road and walk in 30 metres through this long building, past the kitchen and to the sea-facing end where the tables are set out) for two minutes. He eventually ran back to announce, yes, there was 100 Plus, so Gan ordered two.

We had a medium sized dish of Kangkong (we'd ordered a large portion), Fried Squid (we'd ordered steamed) and a fried Sea Bass (after the Kangkong and the Squid, we thought he'd serve us Pomfret instead).

Lunch was very tasty and good value at RM57, then we drove back to Tanjung Piai for the start of the ride.


















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Friday, 5 October 2007

The sounds of silence?

Well, it's been a few weeks since I last posted anything. It has been a period of great activity punctuated by a short period of being ill.

Mei and I had a seafood dinner with Gan and his brother a couple of weeks ago and two days later all four of us were ill with stomach flu. The rest of me has just about recovered, but my stomach continues to make its discomfort with oily or substantive meals known.

I've never dealt with viruses well, and stomach flu has always been particularly vicious. This time around, I was back at work within two days, a little woozy and unfocussed, but otherwise fit enough. Not quite fit enough to get back on the bike, mind, so the last two weeks have been spent fiddling and shopping.

I've fiddled with various little things on the bike, and shopped for more various little things - I just love gadgets. I bought some reflective tape and decorated the bike in the name of safety. I also finally found the rain covers for the panniers, as well as a LowePro camera bag which I am adapting for use as a handlebar bag. I still need to rig up a rear mud-guard which I intend to fashion from the sheets of polycarbonate we have in the office.



Well, add some more reflective tape on my helmet and the bags, and the lights and I should be pretty visible in the dark or rain, no?

It finally dawned on me a few nights ago that, short of the mudguard and the camera tripod mount Johann bought for me from HongKong, the bike is as ready as it will ever be!

I've also spent a bit more time on the map and the route. Check out the map below - I've made a few changes although a few more are still to come.

The places I intend to visit are now marked in red and will be updated when I do get there. I've added the expected dates and some minor details about each location.

I've added lines marking out the general routes I will take, and have included my expected dates of travel. If anyone wants to join me on each leg, please do contact me. Email is best, at least while I ponder the merits or otherwise of posting my Malaysian phone number.

I'd like once again to thank Kelvin of Gee Hin Chan and Najib of Rodalink who've been very helpful and also Mei's good friend, Sharon Tan of M1 who loaned me a Nokia 6110 which I've been hoping to buy but has been out of stock all over Singapore. That will give me the GPS system which will help me plot my position more accurately on maps.



Gee Hin Chan, with Kelvin and Mei

OK that's it for now. Oh... except the start date which is now fixed for October 15th! Just a little after Hari Raya so the perfect time to start off on a celebratory trip!
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They called me John ‘Two-Hits-With-One-Stone’ Cheong

An old memory came to me today when Mei and I went cycling in Balik Pulau. After 2 months of being cooped up in our flat, it was great...